Collection Christianne Burckel & others

PUBLIC SALE :

Thursday, October 24 at 11am and 1:30pm

ADER auction room

17 rue de la Grange Batelière, 75009 Paris

PUBLIC EXHIBITIONS :

Tuesday, October 22, 11am to 6pm

Wednesday, October 23, 11am to 6pm

SALES MANAGER :

Christelle BATAILLER

christelle.batailler@ader-paris.fr

Purchase orders

Lucas DANEL

lucas.danel@ader-paris.fr

EXPERT :

Séverine Experton-Dard

Sedxpert@gmail.com

Heritage Textile & Fashion Expert

+33 6 80 65 12 18

Lots are to be collected as soon as possible from their storage location: 17 rue de la Grange Batelière 75009 Paris.

Monday to Friday 10h-12h / 14h-18h except Thursdays - free of charge 14 days after the sale, then 50 euros per lot per week.

Collection Christiane Burckel & à divers - Passions textiles d'Alsace et d'ailleurs

Over 450 lots of textile and costume archives, woven, dyed or embroidered by

embroidered by hand, reflecting the sensibility of 3 collectors

driven by the same desire to preserve a unique heritage from oblivion.

To begin with, a collection in mint condition (Lots. 20 to 37) from the Jules Dieulefils embroidery and lace factory in the 1920s. Specializing in "honeycomb tulle" since the end of the 19th century, the company has employed embroiderers on a contract basis or grouped together in its workshops in Chatellerault, and from the rue des Petits-Champs in Paris, supplies a clientele of department stores and private individuals with precious trousseaux embellished with lace, embroidery and numerals.

This substantial collection of plumetis embroidery on muslin or tulle, originally intended to decorate regional headdresses, dresses, bridal veils or fine linens, will undoubtedly delight designers and fashion enthusiasts inspired by the unrivalled delicacy of the "handmade".

Next up is the Christianne Burckel Collection (Lots. 38 to 408), which unveils its treasures of domestic confection, brought together in a scholarly work familiar to enthusiasts: Les Etoffes en Alsace, le KELSCH (2014). In it, she traces the history of a fabric whose name is often unknown: Kelsch, a rustic weave of squared linen or hemp that was for centuries the centerpiece of the Alsatian trousseau, before falling into disuse at the beginning of the 20th century. Christianne Burckel invites us to discover a textile heritage rooted in the culture of Vosges flax, home weaving and natural dyes such as woad and madder, in an Alsace that embarked on the Indiennage industry in the 18th century and became a leader in color chemistry and fabric printing in the following century.

Beyond the Kelsch and Bettelkelsh (reserve-printed fabrics in white and indigo blue), it's the whole eminently feminine world of the domestic trousseau that seems to emerge here from the cupboards of the past.

from the wardrobes of the past: scarves, shawls and aprons in silk, muslin, lace or printed cotton; headdresses and costumes embroidered in gold and glitter; precious chamarré ribbons from Basel or St Etienne; children's layette in immaculate cotton knit and piqué; linen damask table linen embellished with red thread embroidery...

From the compulsory apprenticeship in needlework to the making of the linen, cotton or hemp pieces on which each young girl is sure to affix her embroidered initials, we discover a daily life punctuated by secular and religious festivals, in which fabrics were above all the only wealth that generations of women, now forgotten, were able to pass on to each other.

Finally, to conclude this tribute to women's creativity, the works and archives of the embroidery workshop of Nicole Le Maux (Lots 409 to 471), better known until now for her work as a hat historian. Trained at the Lesage school and in the Lunéville technique, curious to explore embroidery in all its facets, N.L.M. gives free rein to her imagination in creations with unprecedented materials and supports; inspired by Arcimboldo, nature and entomology; ready to join modern cabinets of curiosities!