Opening bracelet in 14K (585) gold embellished with enamel m - Lot 86

Opening bracelet in 14K (585) gold embellished with enamel motifs, adorned with a detachable oval in 18K (750) gold with Renaissance-inspired "Holbeinesque" decoration centered on an oval yellow sapphire and composed of enamel, old-cut diamonds and rubies set in squares. Probably English work from the last third of the 19th century. Length of ring (including motif): approx. 16.5cm. Design dimensions: approx. 4.2x2.9cm. Gross weight: 18.3g (slight loss of enamel). The yellow sapphire is accompanied by a GEM-Paris pre-report (2025) attesting: yellow sapphire Sri Lanka, unheated. An Holebeinesque yellow sapphire bracelet From the mid-19th century onwards, jewelry inspired by the medieval and Renaissance periods became very popular in England. This is known as the Holbeinesque style, and is most often characterized by vertical oval compositions, centred on a cabochon stone in geometric motifs, with or without enamels, diamonds or pearls. All the major London jewelry houses produced them for members of the Court, the aristocracy and the artistic intelligentsia. The main manufacturers were John Brogden and Carlo Giuliano, whose designer, Camillo Bertuzzi, produced designs called "Stile Holbine pittore" as early as 1860. Charlotte Gere, Judy Rudoe, Jewellery in the age of Queen Victoria, A mirror to the world, London 2010, p. 344 ff.